Global politics, a carrot dish, and little-known conditions involving the senses.
Here’s something I’m learning about running a specialized newsletter in 2022: stuff keeps coming up. One week its a renewed lockdown, one week its an explosion of toxic workplace accusations, and one week–one murderous, history-changing week, it is nothing short of war.
Those of us who make a habit of writing about food often say that any story can be told through its lens; food writing is not just about go here and eat this or look at this cool new chef but also about economics, identity, culture, justice, the environment, love, family, and yes, violent conflict. As I write this, the battle for Kyiv is roughly 72 hours old, and yet already there is talk of the rise in food costs and the wheat shortages that the war in Ukraine will likely bring. Even the gilded world of gastronomic restaurants is already feeling the impact: the World’s 50 Best Restaurants announced on Thursday that it will relocate this year’s award ceremony–intended for Moscow–to London. And tonight, a bunch of members of Copenhagen’s food and drink community will hold a fundraiser dinner for Save the Children Ukraine. You can learn more about it here.
Yet even though I know it’s true about the lens, it’s also true that in the face of epochal events and colossal human suffering, it can feel trite–even offensive— to write about food and restaurants. So I’m going to pause here and direct you to another link, this one a list of well-vetted charitable organizations offering humanitarian aid in Ukraine. They all welcome donations.
And then, even though I’m not 100% comfortable doing it, I’m going to get back to what Bord is about, and tell you the story behind a dish. I want to tell you about it in part because I promised–these are the sexy carrots I mentioned last issue—but also because, in the way the dish was created, the way the chefs who make it unite seasonality and color and inventiveness and deliciousness in one free-spirited riff, it acts as a tiny reminder that for all the destruction we bring, we humans are also capable of creating beauty from the most mundane things.
Oh, the Bord calendar is back, so if you’ve got a popup or other event you’d like included, get in touch. One more reason, if you haven’t already, to subscribe.
Thanks for reading,